Many times, the quality of the clothes we buy has nothing to do with the price we pay for them. However, identifying which garments are good and which are not can be complicated. Is organic cotton better than “normal” cotton? Should I discard any fabric with polyester? In this report, we analyze the elements that influence the quality and durability of clothing with Aida Márquez, fashion designer, and Enric Carrera, PhD in textile engineering and emeritus professor at UPC.
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Aida Márquez examines the seams of a branded shirt: “This is a good example of cheap tailoring.” It took her less than five seconds to get an idea about the poor quality of the garment. Such tailoring is more likely to break or wear out prematurely. In the video, Márquez also offers tips to identify good t-shirts or which finishes are more resistant in jeans.
However, there are characteristics that we cannot see at first glance. The composition of the fibers or how the fabrics are produced also determine the quality of the garment. In the video, Enric Carrera opens the doors of the INTEXTER textile engineering laboratory: “Here, what we analyze as a research and development center is to numerically measure the usage cycles to be able to predict how long a garment will last.” Through tests that simulate abrasion, they test the resistance or the fabric’s ability to maintain color; the laboratory allows turning quality into measurable data.
Textiles on the European market must be durable, repairable, and recyclable
But consumers do not have the ability to subject clothes to tests before buying them. For this reason, the European Union has proposed a package of measures to regulate the textile industry, so that consumers can have more information and make more appropriate purchasing decisions.
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One of the proposed measures is the Textile Product Digital Passport, a labeling system for garments that will not only inform about the composition and care instructions, but will also indicate the origin of the fibers, the social and environmental impact of the garment, among other things. Additionally, it must inform about the durability of the garment, that is, how many usage cycles it can withstand before breaking or wearing out.
Buying fashion is an emotional act”
Enric Carrera
PhD in textile engineering and emeritus professor at UPC
We will have to wait until 2030, the date by which all regulations must be established in the European Union. However, this regulation must be accompanied by a change in consumer mindset, “this is complicated because buying fashion is an emotional act,” says Carrera. We must move from the current fast fashion model to a more thoughtful consumption, which prioritizes quality production and allows clothes to remain in circulation longer. The profitability of brands must come from the quality of their products and not from constant inventory turnover.
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